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devnet H120
United Kingdom
81 Posts |
 Posted - 19 Jul 2011 : 13:39:10
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Hi,
I was wondering if the seasoned pros could recommend any types/makes of oil to use in a Sunbeam Rapier Fastback H120 (plus where to buy), I know there are variations even with the newer oils and their additives which can gradually damage.
Engine Oil?
Gear Box Oil?
Rear Axle Oil? (+ I have heard about an additive to prevent wear?)
Also any tips on changing the gearbox and rear axle oil in place, seems a bit tight without taking anything out?!
Many Thanks,
Dev
devnet H120 |
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1922
United Kingdom
549 Posts |
Posted - 19 Jul 2011 : 19:24:11
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For normal UK conditions the workshop manual says 20/50 for the engine and gearbox and EP90 for the back axle.
I used Silkolene Pro 4 (full synthetic) for a few years but switched the Castol Magnatec (hoping that it would stick the inside of the engine whilst the car was standing about - like it said in their adverts) - and it's cheaper!
Gearbox is easy to empty - a bit of a pain to fill. I have done it with a 1 litre squeezy bottle (originally it contained EP90) to get the oil into the filler hole. This does mean lying under the car and getting oiley so I'd recommend using a couple of metres of garden hose and a small funnel.
There is no need to dismantle anything.
Rear axle is easy on the earlier cars, but cars from about 73 or 74 onwards have no drain plug which means you have to syphon the old oil out (or dismantle it).
Very easy to fill. I used a full synthetic 75/90 EP oil (in one of the squeezy bottles with the pipe on the top).
I have heard stories from the US of premature cam wear in old engines (like the Ford Cleveland v8) because modern oils don't have much ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates) anti-wear additive. It's been reduced over the last few years because it damages catalytic converters. I haven't heard any horror stories from the UK but it might be worth considering a "classic" oil like the Miller oils that contain ZDDP (see http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop/viewproducts.aspx?plateindexID=10699) for the engine.
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Edited by - 1922 on 19 Jul 2011 19:28:02 |
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bigt80
United Kingdom
1052 Posts |
Posted - 19 Jul 2011 : 19:43:35
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Comprehensive reply there 1922. I'd just add that I always used Duckhams 20/50 (green) as I found it was less prone to sludging than Castrol GTX. Well the last time I drove a Rapier these were the two main oils on offer. I'd stick with a decent 20/50 for engine and box & don't forget separate drain & fill plug on overdrive if you're going to do a proper job. Under no circumstances put additive in the box or o'drive. I have heard of people who've run with EP80 in the box, but I'd imagine their o/drive was pretty slurry . Agree that best way of filling is old hypoid bottle & Derek's covered everything on the diff. Cheers. |
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mike L
18 Posts |
Posted - 21 Mar 2012 : 03:05:28
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Why do the alloy engines have an engine damper?
An even-firing inline-four engine is in primary balance because the pistons are moving in pairs, and one pair of pistons is always moving up at the same time as the other pair is moving down. However, piston acceleration and deceleration are greater in the top half of the crankshaft rotation than in the bottom half, because the connecting rods are not infinitely long, resulting in a non sinusoidal motion. As a result, two pistons are always accelerating faster in one direction, while the other two are accelerating more slowly in the other direction, which leads to a secondary dynamic imbalance that causes an up-and-down vibration at twice crankshaft speed. This imbalance is tolerable in a small, low-displacement, low-power configuration, but the vibrations get worse with increasing size and power.[12] |
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andyb
United Kingdom
367 Posts |
Posted - 21 Mar 2012 : 12:32:04
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dev
try valvoline racing vr1 20/50 its very good, used it in many classics including my mk1 rs2000 rally car i wouldn't be happy with anything else
suppliers are thin on the ground though
dont be tempted to use semi / fully synthetic oils as they are not suitable for older engines
ep oil for the axle
i will be using atf in my manual g/box
get a large syringe with a rubber tube on the end a bit of a faf but worth it
sometimes nothing can be a real cool hand |
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H120 (Fastback) Oil
